Eating Mud Crabs in Kandahar

Eating Mud Crabs in Kandahar: stories of food during wartime by the world's
leading correspondents
These sometimes harrowing, frequently funny, and always riveting stories about food and eating under extreme conditions feature the diverse voices of journalists who have reported from dangerous conflict zones around the world during the past twenty years. A profile of the former chef to Kim Jong Il of North Korea describes Kim's exacting standards for gourmet fare, which he gorges himself on while his country starves. A journalist becomes part of the inner circle of an IRA cell thanks to his drinking buddies. And a young, inexperienced female journalist shares mud crab in a foxhole with an equally young Hamid Karzai. Along with tales of deprivation and repression are stories of generosity and pleasure, sometimes overlapping. This memorable collection, introduced and edited by Matt McAllester, is seasoned by tragedy and violence, spiced with humor and good will, and fortified, in McAllester's words, with "a little more humanity than we can usually slip into our newspapers and magazine stories."
Reviews
"If breaking bread is key to our humanity, it is doubly so in a conflict zone. In this riveting collection, correspondents share war stories through the lens of food and drink. . . . The food rituals become a vehicle for tales of greed and pettiness, but also friendship and human dignity."
- Mother Jones
"We read a lot, perhaps too much about ŒX-treme¹ food and macho food adventures these days, but this anthology calls to mind a better side of the subject: by showing us how food affects us in the most improbable and resistant circumstances, it reminds us again and again of why eating is one of the great continuities of life, even in scary places with scary people and scary-seeming plates."
- Adam Gopnik, author of The Table Comes First
"Compelling and powerful, these personal accounts by reporters assigned to hot spots from Haiti to Kosovo, from Rwanda to Kandahar, cut to the bone. They expose the hard truth that hunger for survival is as universal as battle, that food itself is a metaphor for war, and that eating is war by other means. This is a brilliant collection of stories that satisfies our hunger for words with the intensity of our hunger to live."
- Betty Fussell, author of My Kitchen Wars and Raising Steaks
"These are powerful, intimate stories from some of the best war correspondents of our time--the kind of stories they tell each other about everyday life in some of the most difficult places on Earth. By seducing you with simple tales of food, your defenses are down, you get lost in a good tale, and then, suddenly, you realize that you are fascinated by and finally understand a part of the world that had previously just been confusing and overwhelming. With one great read after another, you will remember these scenes, these characters, for a long time."
- Adam Davidson, founder and host, NPR's Planet Money
"The way to a nation's soul is through its stomach, and that is precisely the territory that these writers explore in this delightful anthology. Whether breaking bread with Palestinian militants, enduring army rations with US troops in Afghanistan or attempting to cook a turkey in Baghdad, they write with dollops of humanity, heapings of insight, and a dash of humor. Read this book but be forewarned: you'll turn the last page hungry for more."
- Eric Weiner, author of The Geography of Bliss
Table of Contents
Introduction: The Name of the Third Chicken: Kosovo
-Matt McAllester
Part One: Survival Rations
Night Light: El Salvador and Haiti
-Lee Hockstader
A Diet for Dictators: North Korea
-Barbara Demick
Siege Food: Bosnia
-Janine di Giovanni
Miraculous Harvests: China
-Isabel Hilton
Part Two: Insistent Hosts
How Harry Lost His Ear: Northern Ireland
-Scott Anderson
Weighed down by a Good Meal: Gaza and Israel
-Joshua Hammer
The Price of Oranges: Pakistan
-Jason Burke
Jeweled Rice: Iran
-Farnaz Fassihi
The Oversize Helmsman of an Undersize Country: Israel
-Matt Rees
Part Three: Food under Fire
Same-Day Cow: Afghanistan
-Tim Hetherington
Eau de Cadavre: Somalia and Rwanda
-Sam Kiley
Eating Mud Crabs in Kandahar: Afghanistan
-Christina Lamb
Munther Cannot Cook Your Turkey: Iraq
-Rajiv Chandrasekaran
Part Four: Breaking Bread
The Best Man I Ever Knew: Georgia
-Wendell Steavenson
Dinner with a Jester: Afghanistan
-Jon Lee Anderson
Sugarland: Haiti
-Amy Wilentz
My Life in Pagans: Ossetia
-James Meek
The House of Bread: Bethlehem
-Charles M. Sennott
Biographies
Acknowledgments
Index